When should I worry about snow load on the roof?
Because snow conditions are so diverse across Alaska, snow loads vary widely, from as much as 300 pounds per square foot (psf) in Whittier to as little as 25 psf in northern Alaska. Several data points are needed to calculate snow loads, including the moisture content of the snow, seasonal accumulation, and drifting.
The weight of snow depends on its moisture content, which can range from about 1 percent to about 33 percent (water weighs about 62 pcf). Compressed snow and snow that accumulates over time weighs more than freshly fallen snow.
Weight is determined by using a measurement called Snow Water Equivalent (converting inches of snow to inches of water by taking a cylindrical core sample of snow and melting it). You can find the daily Snow Water Equivalent (SWE) for different locations in the state at the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Services website at https://www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/snow/snotel-wedata.html.
For example, let’s assume a roof in Fairbanks with a snow depth of 14 inches and a SWE of 2.7 inches.
To calculate pounds per square foot, you multiply the SWE by a conversion factor of 5.2 (check out the formula here). That gives you a snow load of roughly 12.5 psf. Keep in mind that this number is only designed to provide an estimate for the region.
City building code in Fairbanks calls for roofs to withstand a minimum of 50 psf, but homes built before 1991 were required to carry 40 psf and older homes even less. Mobile homes can be built to carry just 20 psf. Keep in mind there is no building code outside the city limits. Roof snow loads can vary depending upon type of roof, the roof slope, and melting and re-freezing of snow and ice, among other factors.
Sloped roofs that periodically shed snow present both benefits and risks. If snow slides safely onto open ground, there’s no problem. But if that snow hits a deck on the way down, the force is multiplied many times more than its resting weight and can shear otherwise stable structures right off if they are not well supported. Or if snow slides onto a flat roof or another surface, its cumulative weight is magnified from that of normal snowfall.
Structures should be designed with overhangs or other features to offer sliding snow a safe path to the ground. The ability of chimneys or utility poles to withstand sliding snow should also be considered.
In addition, decks, sheds, greenhouses, campers and other structures built without permits or an inspection may not be able to handle much load depending on the quality of the workmanship. An underbuilt roof structure may also be at risk for collapse from imbalanced loading. For example, if the snow slides off one side of the roof yet remains on the other, the roof must be able to withstand the forces working against the structure during a change in weight distribution.
How do you know if you have a problem? Well, if you’re not privy to the design specifications of your home, the safest route is to hire a structural engineer to inspect your home and do the math. An inspection can also reveal potential weak spots or places where your roof structure, deck, or framing might fail. Consider how additions or modifications might affect your home’s ability to support snow. Wood tends to be very flexible and can withstand a lot of force over time before it snaps. But if it is not built to the task, eventually it can fail.
Clearing excess snow off your roof or deck is not usually necessary unless you are dealing with an older home, structures that are built to dubious specifications, or an extraordinary buildup of heavy snow. Clearing snow comes with its own risks—like falling off your roof. Also, the addition of your own weight on an already stressed roof can make matters worse. If you suspect a roof might collapse (for example, if you witness sagging or hear creaking), get down immediately.